Sunset on the Tughlaq empire

Profile for the ages

In what is now Begumpur in South Delhi, trash covers the ruins of Jahanpanah — which literally means refuge of the world — and obscures the 14th century monuments there-in. The city was the fourth iteration of Delhi and built under Muhammad bin Tughlaq in 1326-27.

There’s really not much to look at — degraded structures sit next to an open dumping ground, gaggles of men gather to drink or play cricket and children huddle and watch. Any bit of history about the place is not listed on placards on site. Wikipedia provides basics and a more studied look can be found in William Dalrymple’s City of Djinns.

But it still makes a good silhouette at sundown.

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