Of masks and swords

Lopen's famous masks cast from mud

The highlight of my student’s cultural program early last month was a performance of the traditional Buddhist Mahakala chaam dance. I had seen the boys practicing but had no idea how elaborate the costumes and show would be.

Also known as the “Dance of Drinking of Blood,” the Mahakala is performed to eliminate obstacles in the Buddhist path.

The dance circle

More photos below.

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Starting the day

Morning prayers

Each school day starts with an assembly of Buddhist prayers and a recitation of India’s national anthem, Jana Gana Mana.

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Walk jane chahiye!

My 2nd-year Albert (orange) leads Anurag and Phurba along.

I love that my kids are excited to go out for a walk in the woods. When I shout “walk jane!” no fewer than two dozen kids come running. They’re a bit like puppies responding to that command.

It’s also taught me appropriate crowd control measures. 1) Delegate to an older child who will be drunk with power and help you keep the younger ones in line. 2) Force everyone to hold some else’s hand. 3) Take toilet breaks. 4) Buy candy half-way through the walk; do not distribute until end.

It’s our chance to get a bit of exercise, singing and maybe some education together. Once we spotted copulating frogs. Another time, a flying squirrel. And I typically rail against litter whenever we’re out and about.

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Eat your chickpeas

Not exactly Wheaties

Each day, I took breakfast with the kids. Every other day involves a bowl of chickpea soup. It’s actually fantastic and perfectly healthy.

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Adam’s in the kitchen with tongba

The best local hooch I've had

One of my last nights in Sikkim, I paid a visit to a neighbor family that serves up alcohol from time to time. I sat and sipped tongba (above), a local “cocktail” made from fermented millet.

The millet is served in a bamboo mug with a bamboo straw. You keep the whole thing warm by constantly topping off the drink with hot water.

My hosts were enthralled with the fact that I was enthralled with the whole affair. One of the best nights I had there.

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I’ll miss that dog

Asleep. As always.

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Mist shrouds the woods of Sikkim

Foggy days

Sikkim is a wet, misty place this time of year. Monsoon apparently struck early.

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