It’s a bull market

Kamal Cinema cattle

My local market — Kamal Cinema (where there’s no cinema) — is home mostly to liquor stores, dhabas, a few businesses, carousing men and the occasional bull.

Like this guy, a behemoth that wanders Safdarjung Enclave.

Most of the shops pay him no mind and occasionally throw him scraps of food. Or shoo him from their counters before he can dribble snot everywhere.

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He is very snotty


My obsession with cow noses continues.

You can see the full brute in all his glory below.

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Rural village drive-by

Gaon ke log

Several weeks ago, we took a weekend out of town to stay at a fort hotel in Rajasthan. Along the way, we passed fields of sarson (mustard) and atta (wheat) and channa (chickpea). The five hour trip took us over back country roads through rural India.

Domestic scenes and courtyards like the one above (nothing spectacular — the taxi didn’t stop) were common.

It’s really beautiful out there. Simple and and poor and beautiful.

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Abandoned to the herdsmen

The 14th-century fort, Tughlaqabad, is a tourist haven that tourists seem to have forgotten. So today, it’s more likely the home of a few people grazing their goats, donkeys and cattle. See below.

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Visions of the 14th century

Bovine wanderer

Welcome to Tughlaqabad, a fort built in the 1320s and shortly abandoned. Today, it sits on the southern edge of Delhi and remains a largely ignored tourist attraction home to random herders and a handful of Hindu devotees who visit an open air shrine.

The circumference of the fort is measured in kilometers. Adjacent to the site are a beautiful tomb and a smaller fort.

It’s a spectacular place to spend an afternoon and one of Delhi’s fantastic if often overlooked historical sites. See below

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Hide your cows, it’s a-pouring outside

Wet cattle

Cows herd around a traffic island in Noida beneath an overpass to avoid a November rain.

The guys on the motorbike nearly crashed because they wanted to look at me as they sped by.

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Grab the bull by the horns


Or not, as I’m pretty much cattle-phobic. Still.

I’m better than I was, but yes, I’m not getting closer than I need to.

This was a bit of a challenge in Jodhpur (above), which I can say — without any exaggeration — smells like it has the most cows-per-capita of Indian city/town/village/hamlet I’ve visited. Seriously, that place is cow-patty central.

It’s really a wonderful place — with all the heart and chaos and color of India — just a little bovine-ridden.

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Dung flats

Dirty work, but someone's got to do it

An overhead of the muddy yard of a poor farming family in Siliguri. Their primary occupation: collecting dung from their cattle.

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Up with the sun, up with the cattle

Good day, cows

Village life in the deserts of Rajasthan.

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Warrens of Jaisalmer

Back alley

Jaisalmer’s fort isn’t just a relic or tourist trap. It’s a living fort, with dusty alleys and cattle dung and people going about their days.

Don’t trust that bull for a second.

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