Nothin’ but blue skies…

...do I see.

India is generally a dusty and often smoggy place, especially in Delhi. That makes a clear blue sky a real treat.

This one comes from Darjeeling, interrupted only by prayer flags and strings of green and white Gorkhaland decorations.

I’m continuing the Darjeeling photos while I’m off diving in Pondicherry.

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Tibetan eyes

Tibetan Refugee Self Help Centre, Darjeeling

We visited the Tibetan Refugee Self Help Centre in the Darjeeling hills. At the time, it was a rather dour compound. Adults eyed us — seven foreigners pulling up in a van — with reserve. We spent most of our time in the gift shop that sells traditional handicrafts at fixed, good prices.

Outside, these two little ones made up for the quiet with their laughter.

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Copper pot, color kitchen

Just pretty. That's all

Lonely chairs in the Tibetan roadside restaurant we visited in Darjeeling.

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Tibetan kitchen is a family affair

Our tour of Darjeeling was snared by a regular road closure that trapped us in a mountain traffic jam. Perfect Indian excuse for a lunch break.

We ventured to a small Tibetan restaurant where we proceeded to devour steamed vegetable momos and aloo parathas and sweet lemon tea. The whole operation was run out of a cramped kitchen (above) where mom and daughters molded momos (also below) and rolled bread.

Outside, the charismatic papa heckled customers (all of us), refused to serve them tea before lunch (me) and hollered ever-growing food orders (ours) through the door. Pops was absolutely delightful, laughed at my Hindi, and enthusiastically explained (still in Hindi) how to make his lemon tea.

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I’ve been drinking a lot of good tea lately

Future Darjeeling loose leaf

The last week or so I’ve been drinking two+ liters of fine Darjeeling green tea a day. Hot damn it’s good.

The picturesque hills (above) are easy photographic subjects. Buying tea, however, is a whole other story.

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Citizen journalism, old-school

Words for a people suppressed

The Tibetan Refugee Self Help Centre in Darjeeling proudly displays the old World War II-era hand press that printed the Tibetan Freedom newspaper for 32 years. The newspaper was started on the advice of the Dalai Llama, exiled to India, to spread word of Tibetans, their identity and their struggle against Chinese control.

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Sunset over tea

The sun dips behind the ridges of tea in Darjeeling

The Darjeeling series continues with this silhouette sunset.

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Cold sunrise in Darjeeling

Tiger hill at 6:19 a.m., just as the sun came up

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Old Bay and my domestic Indian lifestyle

And some of you laughed at me for bringing along Old Bay

And some of you laughed when I brought along Old Bay

I love photos of domestic settings. There are so many little details to absorb. The one above, though not particularly stunning, is my kitchen.

At the time, I was making some noodle “curry.” The dented can of Old Bay Seasoning, the best salt on the face of this planet, was one of the many things I carried here in my overstuffed backpack. Thank God.

Though I’ve been traipsing about the world, as you’ll see below, I do lead a rather domestic life from time to time.

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Mountain road cricket

Just don't hit it into the valley just out of frame

Quite regularly, the Darjeeling region in West Bengal organizes a bandh, or strike, to show support for creation of a separate state called Gorkhaland. On those days, the usually choked, winding mountain road and rail tracks between Ghoom and Darjeeling are practically empty.

Perfect time for a pickup cricket game. Indians will play anywhere, after all.

Of course, on the other side of the road, the valley plummets hundreds of meters. Best not to swing for that side.

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