City lights

Amritsar at night

A bustling night bazaar in Amritsar, yet away from the market, the city and countryside are pleasantly dark. India remains short on power and nights outside the major cities can be low-light affairs.

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Now that might be sustainable fishing

Old man and the sea

This old man was fresh from his dinghy, which bobbed at anchor in the Puerto Lopez bay. As much as I think widespread fishing remains unsustainable, I’m supportive of small-scale local catches, particularly since the lives of so many poor depend on the sea.

The trick — and what I intend to devote graduate school study to — is finding that appropriate balance between commerce and conserving the planet’s cardiovascular system (i.e., the oceans).

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Highly evolved predator killed by highly ignorant predator

Bycatch

Here I go again railing against the ills of bycatch. Above is a closeup of the beautiful but dead juvenile scalloped hammerhead, a shark that has evolved over eons. Yet like most animals, it has not been prepared for the rapacious habits of man.

Becoming a diver made me appreciate the environment infinitely more, and close encounters like this, in Puerto Lopez, Ecuador, gave me the visceral push to become completely vegetarian and abhor the present trajectory of commercial fishing.

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Of beaches and elephants

Since I read about the Andaman and Nicobar Islands almost eight years ago during my first backpacking trip in India, they’ve been third from the top on my list of destinations. I knocked off No. 1 (Cuba, and specifically Havana) and No. 2 (Madagascar) this year, so I’m going for the hat trick.

I leave next Tuesday via overnight train to Calcutta. From Calcutta, I fly to Port Blair, once home to the prison used by the British for undesirables during the heady years leading up to Independence.

I’ll be there for almost four weeks roaming about; I plan to return to the mainland by ship, a three- to four-day journey.

I’ve got a full list of story ideas to pursue, some of which will almost certainly be jettisoned once I feel the siren call of island life.

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The end of Bombay? Or the beginning of a new chapter?

I'll let you decide what the tagger means...

I'll let you decide what the tagger means.

Mumbai is India’s cosmopolitan, metropolitan First City. Delhi is the country’s Washington, D.C., but Bombay (as Mumbai was formerly named) is New York.

I’d argue that nowhere are India’s economic development and cultural changes more evident than in Mumbai. It showcases the new India — modern, Western, affluent, influential — morphing out of the old India — impoverished, chaotic, colorful, British.

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