Hungry? Check out Old Delhi’s paratha heaven

Paratha station

Welcome to Old Delhi’s Paranthewale Gully or, translated, the back alley of parathas.

Here two restaurants sit side by side serving up oil-fried parathas (also parantha, parotta and sundry other variants). Both claim to have been going at this trade since the late 1800s. Both also violate all manner of health codes, if they even exist.

And both are incredibly popular. I’ve eaten my share at both. Though I wouldn’t take Delhi tyros there, I have yet to die.

A paratha is stuffed bread that can be grilled, baked or, in this case, fried. It makes for unhealthy goodness and is a go-to Indian food served for breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks in between.

See below for a look at one of the paratha joints in all its glory.

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I will miss thee, chaat-wallah

Snack wallah

Granted, I rarely partake of streetside chaat (snacks), but when I leave India I will miss the ubiquitous chaat vendor nonetheless. He’s always ready to offer me peanuts, chips, chickpeas and other roasted or fried bits of unhealthy tastiness.

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Cheating on my kebabwallah

Old Delhi kebabs

I don’t hide the fact that I have a special relationship with my kebabwalla, but my outlet of choice, however, closed down this spring and I’ve been relegated to a getting my fix at a different, less convenient branch (that I swear just isn’t as good).

Given that, I took a visiting friend up to Old Delhi to the celebrated Karim’s Hotel kebab joint in the bylanes outside Jama Masjid. Karim’s is a legend in Delhi culinary circles and certainly deserves some of it’s fame.

We picked up chicken seekh rolls (for my friend) and paneer tikka for me.

It was good, that’s not in doubt, but it still can’t match my Aap ki Khatir. I’m almost relieved. Visiting any other kebab stand just feels like an illicit tryst.

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Sabji walle!

Dharamshala vegetable sellers

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Chai, chai, garam chai, chai garam, garam chai…

Amritsari masala tea is dang fine

A charismatic chaiwallah whips up a batch with pomp and circumstance. Spicy with plenty of kali mirch and elaichi. Accha hei.

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Kebab week, Vol. 7

Some like it hot

In honor and memory of the Khan Market Aap ki Khatir branch, this week I devote the blog to a series of kebab-wallah photos from a trip with friends to the Nizamuddin location.

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Kebab week, Vol. 6

Roti

In honor and memory of the Khan Market Aap ki Khatir branch, this week I devote the blog to a series of kebab-wallah photos from a trip with friends to the Nizamuddin location.

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Kebab week, vol. 5

Pyaaz

Every good kebab needs onions. Lots and lots of onions.

In honor and memory of the Khan Market Aap ki Khatir branch, this week I devote the blog to a series of kebab-wallah photos from a trip with friends to the Nizamuddin location.

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Kebab week, Vol. 4

Roll up a fat Tikka

In honor and memory of the Khan Market Aap ki Khatir branch, this week I devote the blog to a series of kebab-wallah photos from a trip with friends to the Nizamuddin location.

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Kebab week, Vol. 3

Chicken tikka

In honor and memory of the Khan Market Aap ki Khatir branch, this week I devote the blog to a series of kebab-wallah photos from a trip with friends to the Nizamuddin location.

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