Allegedly there were crocodiles in the pools

Little Andaman, India

Little Andaman, India

I said allegedly. The “Beware Crocodiles” signs were enough to keep me from a swim and a shower.

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≤20 Seconds: Hermits of Havelock

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A year-in-review

2009 kinda kicked ass

2009 kinda kicked ass

This past year pretty much rocked. And the New Year came in fine manner.  No kisses, but a bonfire amid the palm trees (above), new friends, lobster, a decent cigar (thanks, C!), champagne and even the Harry Connick, Jr., band playing Auld Lang Syne at midnight (never leave home without the iPod).

I meant to post this sooner, but here’s a little look back at my new life (as chronicled on this blog):

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I may be ‘stuck’ in southeast Asia

Anyone contemplating a visit in the next year should probably pay attention. There has been an official hiccup in visa rules, meaning I may need to leave the country for longer than planned this spring.

Essentially, after it was revealed that alleged terrorist conspirator David Headley had stayed in India long-term on a tourist visa, the Indian government has cracked down. Under previous rules, with the five-year tourist visa I currently hold, I could stay in the country for up to six months at a time and leave even for one day to “reset” my visa clock. Hence, my week booked in Thailand beginning March 31.

However, under the new rules, I have to leave for at least two months. This means that instead of returning to India from Thailand, and heading to Sikkim to teach English at a volunteer-supported school, I would be “stuck” in Thailand. And the Thai tourist visa is typically valid for 30 days, meaning I would need to move somewhere else.

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And we’re back! (with cows)

I had to share the beach only with these guys

I had to share the beach only with these guys

Little known fact about me: I have an unreasonable fear of cattle. Big, dull cow eyes creep me out. Especially when they’re attached to a stupidly large face with horns.

Don’t laugh. I’m not kidding.

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Drop a line in the water

Roots make a neat ledge for for string fishing

Roots make a neat ledge for for string fishing

One reason I came to the Andamans was to pursue a story about the legacy of the 2004 tsunami. That unfortunately fell through for a number of reasons: language barriers, logistics, me being sick in the middle of nowhere. But I did manage this photo.

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A stomp through the jungle

Flighty little bastard

Flighty little bastard

A few days ago, I went out hunting geckos and frogs and reptiles, oh my! with a team of researchers from Serbia/Croatia. The Andaman Islands, where I’ve been for a couple weeks, are relatively unexplored, scientifically. The researchers were doing initial scouting for a grant proposal. I was playing tag-along journalist.

I also managed to embed several spines from a random vine in my hand. Note to self: Don’t grab random plants in the jungle. They finally worked their way out today (four days later).

One key mission was to find the rare and largely unstudied Andaman Islands Day Gecko, but more about that later. In the meantime, enjoy this little guy, a common lizard.

Also, I was dark for four days, have one day near the Internet and will be mostly dark again (more scuba and remote beach time) for some time until January 8 or so. Happy New Year!

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Beasts of burden, island style

Nose hair, anyone?

Nose hair, anyone?

It was actually a rather sad visit to the Forestry Department elephant training camp on Havelock Island. Elephants chained to trees wasn’t exactly what I was expecting. Wondering what PETA thinks.

But this guy was rather frisky, even if the exposure was problematic.

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Beach art courtesy of sand crabs

Busy little crabs

Busy little crabs

Little, semi-translucent sand crabs scurry everywhere along the beaches of Havelock Island. They are heartily afraid of anything, even shadows.

But leave them enough time to themselves and they’re rather industrious in their digging. And they leave behind some fun “art.”

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Bounty of the sea

Fishing the rocky surf at Havelock's Beach No. 7

Fishing the rocky surf at Havelock's Beach No. 7

The beach in either direction was nearly deserted. The sun dipped low in the sky. Meru deliberately, slowly worked the shallows along a small rocky headland at Radha Nagar Beach on Havelock Island.

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