Delhi Street Jams, Vol. 2

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Two weeks ago I came home from a bike ride to watch crews set up what could have been mistaken for an Indian carnival tent on a sidestreet near my apartment: four walls of purple and orange curtains, without a roof and lit by generator-powered flood lights.

At first, I assumed it was a wedding and got excited to gate crash. Then, after speaking to our block’s chowkidar (watchman), I learned it was a pooja (prayer service), though for what I couldn’t quite understand. Decorum won out, and I respectfully decided not to interlope.

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A year-in-review

2009 kinda kicked ass

2009 kinda kicked ass

This past year pretty much rocked. And the New Year came in fine manner.  No kisses, but a bonfire amid the palm trees (above), new friends, lobster, a decent cigar (thanks, C!), champagne and even the Harry Connick, Jr., band playing Auld Lang Syne at midnight (never leave home without the iPod).

I meant to post this sooner, but here’s a little look back at my new life (as chronicled on this blog):

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≤20 Seconds: Delhi’s wonderful chaos


This is the colorful, chaotic India that is old Delhi. It’s also the antithesis of my slow, island life of the last couple (and next couple) weeks.

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Disconnected and loving it

The blog has gone dark for a reason: I severed ties to modern telecommunications for more than a week. And it was glorious.

When I came to Havelock Island for some reporting, sun and surf in a tropical Valhalla, I completely lost touch. Hell, for several days, the Internet was literally a half-hour drive from my hotel.

And when I finally did stop at a cafe, I (re)learned the painfully slow (glacier-like) reality of dial-up Internet 500 kilometers from anywhere. We’re talking pre-1998 data speeds.

So while I have had many thrilling adventures involving new friends, good food, tan lines, a deadly banded sea krait and one near-fatal (overdramatic: could have been fatal if I had freaked-out and acted utterly stupid) hiccup, the retelling of those tales will have to wait a bit longer.

I should be back to a bit more civilization (sadly) in a few days, so perhaps there will be time to recount my shenanigans then.

Happy Holidays to all.

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Get down with your Sikh self

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Men and boys show off during the parade

Yesterday adherents to the Sikh faith paraded with pomp and circumstance through Paharganj. They were honoring their 10th guru, they’re spiritual leader, Guru Gobind Singh.

Free food was served from stalls along the lane; Sikh “warriors” put on demonstrations of fighting — Gobind Singh is known as a warrior poet — and dancing.

Sadly, the little Canon point-n-shoot doesn’t do the visual feast justice, but…

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New India knows how to party

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Tote, at Mahalaxmi Racecourse

I went to an American product launch party in Mumbai this weekend, for an assignment that deals with India’s economic ascension. I’m not giving more details, in part because I’m still chasing this story.

But you get an idea of a high-end Mumbai shindig and India’s new money.

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Of drums and elephants

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The wedding party breaks up

On a recent evening while I was transcribing in my room, drums exploded outside my window (hit play above). They echoed through the neighborhood here at Tutti Chowk, Paharganj, and by the time I got down to the street, what I believe was a marriage procession had turned down enough alleys that I couldn’t find the drum gang and only heard the banging in the distance.

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