Prayer hike

Walk with God

Taking a walk with prayer beads around Namgyal Monastery in Dharamshala.

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Waving in the spiritual breeze

Buddhist prayer flags

On the hillside surrounding the Namgyal Monastery in Dharamshala, pilgrims routinely ply a forest path. The trail circles past numerous shrines and thickets covered in praying stones and colored flags.

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Beads for monks

Monks have to haggle in the market, too

In the market leading up to Dharamshala’s Namgyal Monastery, the spiritual home of the Dalai Lama in exile, a fierce debate breaks out, not over theology or discipline, but the price of prayer beads.

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Chalo bache, puja karo

Idhar aao beti

The Golden Temple is an all-ages pilgrimage site. And the kids are pretty damn cute. See below.

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Marching faithful

Prayer hip shot

Amritsar’s Harmandir Sahib — more commonly known as the Golden Temple — sees a steady stream of pilgrims who come to Sikhism’s holiest grounds to pray. It’s a nonstop flow of worshipers.

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Contemplating faith and beauty

Man and temple reflect

A man pauses at the Golden Temple, the Harmandir Sahib, in Amritsar. The beautiful complex of white marble, reflecting water, glistening gold and marching pilgrims is Sikhism’s holiest site and something stunning to behold.

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Pull ‘er over for a quick prayer

A roadside shrine on the “highway” from Kesroli back to Delhi.

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Kabutar!

Good luck birds

A flock of pigeons, fed often for good luck and other auspicious reasons, in Old Delhi.

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Qawwali, down at the dargah

Wild music in the dark

Thursday nights, the dargah of Sufi saint Nizamuddin comes alive in Delhi. Qawwali players sing and rock a harmonium, tabla and more. It draws a crowd who come both for the music and to pay respect to the shrine itself.

The story of Nizamuddin is long and worth a read. But he’s one of the most famous Sufi saints who challenged his people and emperors alike.

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It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas…

Deck the halls

I’ve been listening to holiday music since Friday, 26 November. Per Jadhav tradition, that is the day when the Christmas season begins. That night, we decorated a perfect little live Charlie Brown-esque tree on my balcony, hung strings of lights and ornaments in my room, lit a tray of red and white candles and covered my lonely compact fluorescent bulb with a shimmering paper star.

I’ve been a little slower on the blog, but today I’ve hung a nice string of Christmas lights across the top of the page. They’ll probably stay there until February (which is about right for my speed at taking decorations down).

And with my school on holiday now, I’ve been planning a Christmas Eve/Day lineup of comfort food, sweets and movies to watch on this day of celebration.

Delhi shopping malls are doing their part, rolling out ostentatious decorations, blaring holiday music too loud for shoppers and generally embracing the less-than-enjoyable, let’s-spend-lots-of-money nature of secular Christmas in the states. Garish and all-too-commercial though it may be, the spectacle warms my heart with nostalgia.

Even the weather here in Delhi makes it feel like a proper winter, with temps in the low 40s Fahrenheit at night.

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