Now that’s a ’stache

So Jaipur is a bit touristy...

From 2004. He demanded payment for the photo. For the record, this guy also played two wooden flutes with his nostrils. Huzzah!

I’m traveling at the moment in Rajasthan with Joel and Kate. I won’t be near the Internet much for several days. Enjoy preset blog posts.

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Taj heaven inside Agra hell

One of my favorite spots on earth

Today I’m in Agra, home of the Taj Mahal, with Joel, Kate and David. We’re meeting David’s friend Julie there as well. The blog is running on autopilot for a week or so until I’m back in Delhi

As many people know by now, I’m not a fan of Agra and its predatory ways. Of course, Agra is home to a Wonder of the World, the Taj Mahal, so an occasional visit with friends is unavoidable.

Thankfully, inside the Taj complex, I’ve found one of the most peaceful spots on the planet. Especially early in the day. I took the above photo inside the mosque just west of the Taj.

I spent a long, morning hour in prayer there in 2002, before this caretaker came by to splash water on the floor and sweep. The tourist crush showed up soon after to ruin the moment.

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Peaceful streets of Pondi

Wide, clean avenues... ahh that colonial French influence.

The former French territory Pondicherry still bears some charms of its colonial past. Chief among them, a French quarter that is calm and clean and open.

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Winged desert rats

The one in the middle is clearly giving me the stink eye

In honor of my upcoming trip to the desert state of Rajasthan, here are 2004-era pigeons from a royal courtyard in Jaipur. Though we tend to think of pigeons as diseased garbage birds, in Islam (and even in some secular segments of India) they are respected or even lucky.

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Good morning, Darjeeling

Tiger Hill at 6:36 a.m.

Dozens of Indian tourists come up here to see the sunrise; the cars start arriving by 4 a.m. when it’s still pitch black. People are cheering by the time the sun rises above the eastern hills. On a good day, it lights up Kanchenjunga, the world’s third highest mountain.

When we were there, the mountain was a little shy. See below.

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Graff love

Ahh young stupid lovers...

Humayun’s Tomb, a 16th-century edifice built with a wife’s grand love for her emperor husband, becomes a canvas for the fleeting passions of innocent hearts.

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The djinns of Delhi

A classic Delhi facade takes you back in time, if only for a moment

Delhi is filled with old monuments — ghosts and shades of the past — tucked amid the modern hustle and bustle. I’ve been living here for months now and am still noticing new ones. The buildings, sometimes well-preserved as World Heritage Sites, sometimes tucked in neat gardens, sometimes all but ignored, are a reminder of how old this city is.

Most historians agree that there have been at least seven previous Delhis built here before. The British rebuilt and reengineered the eighth. I argue that the current renovations brought on by the Commonwealth Games, and middle-class wealth in general, should be considered Delhi IX.

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