‘No charge for pagri’

I became a public spectacle

The Golden Temple is Sikhism’s most holy place. All those entering the temple must out of respect and acknowledgement for tradition cover their heads.

This has given rise to a whole industry of people selling scarves, kerchiefs and other headgear in the bylanes leading to the Golden Temple complex. The temple itself also offers free head coverings in the form of simple scarves.

Since I often wear a long stole with my kurta-pyjama, I have learned to tie myself a makeshift turban, or pagri, on festive or religious occasions. That had been my intention again, when I visited the temple complex on holiday in March.

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Sabji walle!

Dharamshala vegetable sellers

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Chai, chai, garam chai, chai garam, garam chai…

Amritsari masala tea is dang fine

A charismatic chaiwallah whips up a batch with pomp and circumstance. Spicy with plenty of kali mirch and elaichi. Accha hei.

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Kebab week, Vol. 7

Some like it hot

In honor and memory of the Khan Market Aap ki Khatir branch, this week I devote the blog to a series of kebab-wallah photos from a trip with friends to the Nizamuddin location.

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Kebab week, Vol. 6

Roti

In honor and memory of the Khan Market Aap ki Khatir branch, this week I devote the blog to a series of kebab-wallah photos from a trip with friends to the Nizamuddin location.

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Kebab week, vol. 5

Pyaaz

Every good kebab needs onions. Lots and lots of onions.

In honor and memory of the Khan Market Aap ki Khatir branch, this week I devote the blog to a series of kebab-wallah photos from a trip with friends to the Nizamuddin location.

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Kebab week, Vol. 4

Roll up a fat Tikka

In honor and memory of the Khan Market Aap ki Khatir branch, this week I devote the blog to a series of kebab-wallah photos from a trip with friends to the Nizamuddin location.

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Kebab week, Vol. 3

Chicken tikka

In honor and memory of the Khan Market Aap ki Khatir branch, this week I devote the blog to a series of kebab-wallah photos from a trip with friends to the Nizamuddin location.

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Kebab week, Vol. 2

Chick haunch

In honor and memory of the Khan Market Aap ki Khatir branch, this week I devote the blog to a series of kebab-wallah photos from a trip with friends to the Nizamuddin location.

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Kebab week, Vol. 1

The knights of Aap ki Khatir

R.I.P. to my favorite kebab stand in Khan Market here in Delhi.

In a process that seemed draconian and lacking in reason, police shut down a number of market stalls including a tiny branch of Aap ki Khatir, the hawker of heaven, the best kebabwallah on the planet.

I’m thankful that the older, bigger branch (above) still exists in the Nizamuddin neighborhood; but trips to Khan Market are a little less joyous these days without the promise of paneer paratha roll.

In honor and memory of the Khan Market Aap ki Khatir branch, this week I devote the blog to a series of kebab-wallah photos from a trip with friends to the Nizamuddin location.

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