The cloistered life of wealth

Flight of the pigeons

An interior courtyard at the palace of Mariam-uz-Zamani, known today as Jodhabai, the Rajput princess who became wife to Mughal emporer Jalal-ud-din Muhammad Akbar, or Akbar the Great. Her palace today is a World Heritage site at Fatehpur Sikri near Agra.

Today, the warrens of Fatehpur and nearby Agra are tourist nightmares. They represent the ghoul that arises when Western wealth and gullibility meet Indian poverty and aggressive entrepreneurship. The touts, the scams, the hawkers as well as the ignorance and self-rigteous behavior (from both sides, mind you). Oy. There are few places in India I like less.

But inside Jodhabai’s haven — and similarly inside the Taj Mahal — one finds respite. Of course, behind the peaceful walls, I’m not unlike a member of the Mughal court of the 1500s, cloistered safely away from the poor, common folk hustling and bustling in the dirt outside.

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Immutable layers of Delhi

Qutub Minar was built, updated, added to and changed by various rulers. It’s massively divergent and intricate in its details. All are stone cuts from the various nooks of the monument complex.

Also, I wish I could read, write, speak Arabic.

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My world heritage

Leaning back against the centuries

Qutub Minar in south Delhi is fantastic, with parts of it very well restored. It draws tourists from all over the world as one of India’s chief World Heritage sites. As a quasi-dual citizen, I pay Rs. 10 to get in.

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